My 7 New Year’s gardening resolutions

A brand new year is an inspiring time to take an appraisal of the past year and figure out how you can do better this year. I like to do that for my gardening, so here are my seven New Year’s gardening resolutions:

1. Add raised beds to my garden spot

Raised garden bed

I have a large garden spot, and the soil is pretty good, but adding a few raised beds will allow me to more carefully control growing elements from soil quality to drainage to weed control and everything else necessary to produce quality plants and vegetables. And they look good, too.

2. Control my seed-starting

Tomato seedlings

I love starting seeds. In fact, I love starting seeds more than harvesting vegetables! So each spring when I go into my greenhouse, I tend to plant way more seeds than I will ever need. Even after giving away as many as I can and planting as many as my garden will allow, I still have leftovers which, unfortunately, end up in the compost pile. This year, I resolve to limit my seed-starting to a manageable amount. Besides saving money on seeds and seed-starting soil, I’ll have the satisfaction of making sure each little seedling actually gets planted.

3. Get in front of the weeding

Weeding tools

I ask the same question every year: why do the weeds grow so much faster than my garden plants? Take a day or two off from weeding and they take over the garden. This year, I vow to stay ahead of the game and chop them before they ever get a foothold in my garden.

4. Plant something I’ve never tried before

Renee’s Gardens Zinger Hibiscus

We all have our favorite standbys. Mine are tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and squash. But this year, I plan to add something different to my garden. Maybe onions or leeks. Perhaps beets. I’m an herbal tea drinker, so I think I’ll try Zinger Hibiscus from Renee’s Garden this year. The point is, it’s a good idea to grow your gardening abilities by trying new things.

5. Start worm farming again


Earthworms are so good for your soil, it’s a wonder that every gardener doesn’t have a worm farm! Worm castings – or worm poo – is some of the richest organic fertilizer you’ll find and it’s easy and free to produce. I had a worm farm several years ago before eventually freeing all the earthworms into my garden. It’s time to get one started again.

6. Be more faithful about composting

Compost pile

Simply toss kitchen scraps and yard material – grass, leaves, plants – into a pile and you’ll eventually have a crumbly, dark, nutrient-rich material that gardeners call “black gold” for good reason: it contains nutrients beneficial to plants, helps soil retain those nutrients, increases soil’s water capacity, and attracts valuable earthworms to your garden. I compost, but sometimes it’s more convenient to toss kitchen scraps into the garbage can. Not this year. If it can compost, it goes into the pile.

7. Get in front of the weeding

Weeding tools

Did I mention this already?

How to plant garlic

Growing your own garlic is easy.

In the fall and early winter, when days grow shorter and cooler and the first frost approaches, it’s time to plant garlic.

Hard-neck vs. soft-neck garlic

Though garlic comes in dozens of varieties, there are two main types of garlic: hard-neck and soft-neck. The garlic you find in the grocery store usually is soft-neck garlic, which tends to be milder in taste than the hard-neck, which has a more robust, garlic flavor.

However, most U.S. gardeners will need to grow hard-neck varieties, which thrive in areas with severe winters. Soft-neck garlic grows well only in arid climates where winters are mild. Before ordering garlic to plant, find out from area gardeners or from your local agricultural extension service which garlic is best suited to grow in your region.

Planting garlic

Unless your soil is very well drained, you’ll want to plant your garlic seed in a raised bed so water drains out. Otherwise, roots will rot. Remember, however, that raised beds require close monitoring because soil can dry out quickly.

Before planting, have the soil tested by a local extension agent. Garlic grows best in soil with a pH of 7. Once the soil is right, plant the garlic cloves pointy side up 2-3 inches deep and about 7 inches apart. Rows should be 12-13 inches apart.

Tending the garlic garden

As the weather turns cold, mulch with 2 inches of chopped leaves. This not only keeps light from getting through to the plants, but it helps suppress weeds. The garlic shoot will emerge from the mulch in spring.

When the plants are 6 to 8 inches high, apply a 7-2-4 fertilizer — I prefer that in an organic fertilizer — very liberally. You’ll get a bigger plant with a better bulb.

The plant will continue growing and in early summer a flower stalk called a scape will appear. Many garlic growers cut off the scapes by hand to encourage the plant to focus its growing energy on developing the bulb rather than the flower.

Harvest time

As the plant grows, the leaves begin to turn brown from the bottom up. More leaves will die as harvest time approaches. When four to five green leaves remain on the plant — usually from late June to late July — it’s time to harvest the garlic.

You can eat it immediately or store it for later use. Garlic keeps longest when stored at 60-65 degrees in moderate humidity.

Enrich your soil with a compost pile

When you want to enrich your garden soil, but you avoid commercial, chemical fertilizers, the natural solution can be found right at home with a compost pile. Fed kitchen scraps and yard litter, your compost pile will yield a crumbly, dark, nutrient-rich material that gardeners call “black gold” for good reason: it contains nutrients beneficial to plants, helps soil retain those nutrients, increases soil’s water capacity, and attracts valuable earthworms to your garden.

A compost pile’s bacteria and other microorganisms generate heat when they digest organic material and turn it into compost. You may choose to let nature do all the work with a slow-acting “cold” compost pile or you can hurry the process along by creating a more labor-intensive “hot” compost pile.

If you opt for the hot method, start by planning for a large pile, because it holds heat better than a small one. Your best option is a pile about 4 or 5 feet wide, long, and high.

Combining kitchen scraps and yard litter creates rich compost.

Greens and browns

Organic matter consists of large amounts of carbon and smaller amounts of nitrogen. Organic matter in your compost bin will break down more quickly if you mix a ratio of 25 to 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen. Carbon is the “brown” dead stuff such as autumn leaves, straw, newspaper, and cornstalks; nitrogen is the fresh “green” stuff such as grass clippings, weeds and other plants, and kitchen vegetable scraps.

Some gardeners prefer to alternate their green and brown organic matter in layers measuring 2-4 inches thick, but others find that mixing the two together is more effective. It all gets mixed up when you turn it, anyway.

Chop or shred materials before you add them to the compost pile so they’ll decompose faster. Some gardeners recommend that they be no larger than an inch in diameter.

Turn up the heat

Use a compost thermometer — those with a long probe are preferable — to monitor the pile’s temperature. It should reach from 130-170 degrees in just a few days. When you notice the internal temperature dropping, turn the pile, moving inside material out and outside material in.

Turning the pile frequently allows more oxygen to the microorganisms that are creating your compost, which in turn accelerates decomposition. Aerating it every couple of days will create compost faster than aerating it weekly. If this is too labor-intensive, simply toss your kitchen scraps and yard litter onto the pile and forget about it; it eventually will break down into rich compost.

If you want your compost pile to speed up even faster, commercial accelerants, which contain concentrated amounts of microorganisms already in your compost pile, are available in both organic and non-organic formulas. Or you can try home solutions, such as fresh grass cuttings, coffee grounds, aged livestock manure, beer, or rabbit food pellets. These are nitrogen-rich and will jump-start a lagging compost pile.

Watch the water

Water the pile in dry weather to keep it damp, but not soggy.  Too much water depletes oxygen for the material-munching microorganisms and creates unpleasant odors.

Cover the pile with a plastic tarp. This keeps moisture in during dry weather and excessive water out during rainy weather. Be sure to check the pile regularly to make sure it’s moist enough and aerated correctly.    

Discovering ‘black gold’

After several weeks, your hot compost pile will produce “black gold” for your soil; after several months, your cold compost pile will produce the same results. Either method you choose, your soil will be all the richer for it.


What to do with that zucchini?

You can do much more with zucchini than just cooking it.

You’ve heard the old joke — the danger of leaving your car windows down in summer isn’t that your car will get stolen; it’s that someone might leave zucchini in it.

Gardeners know that they can’t possibly use all of their abundant harvest so they give away lots of it. These recipes, provided on request from Ruby Davis, offer a couple of tasty solutions to those spare squash.

Zucchini Chocolate Chip Cookies

1 egg, beaten

½ cup butter, softened

½ cup brown sugar

1/3 cup honey

1 Tbsp. vanilla extract

1 cup white flour

1 cup whole wheat flour

½ tsp. baking soda

¼ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. cinnamon

¼ tsp. nutmeg

1 cup finely shredded zucchini

12 ounces chocolate chips


1. In a large bowl, combine egg, butter, brown sugar, honey and vanilla and mix. Set aside.

2. In a separate bowl, combine white flour, whole wheat flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg. Mix well and blend into the liquid mixture.

3. Add zucchini and chocolate chips and mix well.

4. Drop by spoonful onto a greased baking sheet and flatten with the back of a spoon.

5. Bake 10-15 minutes at 350 degrees.

Makes about four dozen.

Lemony zucchini bread

4 cups flour

1½ cups sugar

1 pkg. instant lemon pudding

1½ tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. salt

4 eggs

1¼ cups milk

1 cup vegetable oil

3 Tbsp. lemon juice

1 tsp. lemon extract

2 cups shredded zucchini

2 Tbsp. poppy seeds

2 tsp. grated lemon peel


1. In large bowl, combine flour, sugar, pudding mix, baking soda, baking powder and salt.

2. In another bowl, whisk eggs, milk, vegetable oil, lemon juice and lemon extract.

3. Stir in dry ingredients until moistened and fold in zucchini, poppy seeds and lemon peel.

4. Pour into two greased 9”x5” loaf pans.

5. Bake at 350 degrees for 50-55 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean.

6. Cool for 10 minutes before removing from pans.

Makes two loaves.

Seed-starting is gratifying, frugal, and fun

Each spring finds me in my greenhouse, planting the seeds that eventually will fill my garden and produce the varieties of tomatoes, peppers, corn, squash and more that I like the most. For some, researching and ordering specific seeds, making a batch of seed-starting soil, planting, and raising seedlings is a bit labor-intensive, particularly when they could buy plant and easily stick them in the ground.

I get that.

But there’s much to be said for starting your own seeds. Here’s why I do:

Pepper seedlings in the greenhouse.

Tending the seed

First, it’s a huge sense of accomplishment — to me, anyway — to nurture a plant from its tiny seed all the way through harvest. From planting, watering, setting on heat mats, fussing with lighting, transplanting, hardening off, and finally placing in the ground, each and every plant has been lovingly grown and tended from the very beginning.

I learned a long time ago from a greenhouse grower that healthy roots are the foundation of a healthy plant, and by raising them yourself, from seed, you’ll know that each plant is strong and healthy.

Discovering new varieties

Second, I prefer the diversity offered by growing from seed. Yes, shopping commercial greenhouses is a joy, with the explosion of colors and all the plants and possibilities; however, they generally tend to carry a very limited variety of flowers and vegetables. And you see the same ones year after year.

How would I ever know that the Riesentraube is one of the most prolific, and flavorsome, variety of cherry tomato? Or that the Corno di Toro Giallo Italian pepper is sweet and spicy? Each new variety is like an exciting discovery.

Customize your garden

Photo from Pinterest

Third, you can grow exactly the kind of garden you want. A monochromatic flower garden filled with nothing but white bellflowers, ranunculus, gladiolas, polar bear zinnias, candy tuft, dahlias, vinca, and begonia is breathtaking. Same with blue, using indigo-colored flowers such as columbine, flax, lupine, cornflower, bluebells, allium, and delphinium. The seeds for all these are easy to find.

My gardens contain primarily heirloom plants, because I’m partial to the old varieties and the history behind them. Heirloom plants are not easy to find at most garden shops, so starting seeds is usually my only option.

Save money

Finally, growing seeds is much more economical than buying plants. With just a few packs of seeds, you can start enough plants to fill up a good-sized garden plot. Filling that same-sized garden plot with purchased plants is costly.

And if you’re lucky enough to find heirloom plants for sale, expect to pay more than you do for the more common hybrid plants.

 Besides, I have a very hard time paying what I think is too much for a plant I could easily grow myself.

~~ Ready to start a few seeds? ~~

If you want to try your hand at starting seeds, check out our seed-starting primer to find out how.

The seed-starting primer

Imagine growing vegetables or flowers that are so unique that none of your neighbors have them. Or creating a specialized flower garden with exactly the kinds of blooms, color, and foliage you want.

            Starting your own plants from seeds allows you much more variety — and savings — than if you buy all your plants at your local nursery.

            It’s fun, too. My favorite part of gardening is planting seeds, watching for the seedlings to emerge, and nurturing them until they’re ready to put into the ground or a container.

            Starting your own seeds is easy. Here’s how:

Seed-starting soil mix

Start with a seed-starting potting mix, which is formulated to create ideal growing conditions for the tiny seed. I usually make my own, but if you’re just getting started, go for a pre-made mix.

Moisten the mix

Pour the seed-starting mix into a container and add water to moisten it. Stir well. Seeds need that moisture to trigger germination. Don’t make it too wet; it’s at the right consistency when you pick up a handful, squeeze it and just a little bit of water drips out.

Fill seed tray

Loosely fill the cells of your seeding tray with the moistened soil. Once it’s full, drop the tray from just a few inches onto your table surface. This removes air pockets and helps settle the soil mix so each cell is about three-fourths full.

Place the seed

Choose your seeds and pour a few into your hand. I use a sharp knife to easily pick up each tiny seed from my hand to place in each cell.

Germinate with water

After each cell has a seed, gently spray each one to moisten the seed to further trigger germination. This also helps to settle the seed into the mix, so it has contact with the soil, which is essential for sprouting.

Cover appropriately

Cover each seed according to that particular variety’s recommendation. It’s important to pay attention to this and read the directions on the seed packet. Some particular pepper varieties need light to germinate, so I don’t cover them with the soil mix at all. Other peppers need to be planted anywhere from about 1/8- to ½-inch deep, so it’s good to check planting directions.

Identify each variety

If you’ve planted several different kinds of seeds, you may forget which is which, so always identify each flat. I use either wooden or plastic markers and write the variety on one side and the planting date on the other, using a heavy black marker.

Keep seeds moist and humid

Place the cells in a tray or anything else that will hold water to keep the soil moist. You may want to place a clear plastic lid atop the tray until the seedlings emerge. This helps keep the growing environment humid and the soil moist. Remove it, however, once the seedlings pop through. They grow quickly as they reach for the light, and you won’t want the plastic blocking their growth.

Provide a light source

            Start off with a variety that sprouts quickly, such as squash, zinnias, or marigolds. Once you successfully start your own seeds, you’ll fill your gardens with plants you never dreamed you could grow.

           Once the seeds sprout, you’ll need to provide a strong light source, such as a sunny window and/or a grow-light setup.

Pepper seedlings in the greenhouse.

Get growing!

            Start off with a variety that sprouts quickly, such as squash, zinnias, or marigolds. Once you successfully start your own seeds, you’ll fill your gardens with plants you never dreamed you could grow.

Make your own grow light setup

Starting seeds indoors a few weeks before it’s time to plant outside makes spring feel a little closer than it actually is, and if you enjoy gardening, it’s really exciting. But for those seedlings to grow healthy and strong, you’re going to need a little more light than a sunny south window can provide. The days still aren’t quite long enough to provide adequate light for seedlings.

Fluorescent lights for 16-18 hours a day will help your seedlings grow healthy roots and establish leaves.

           That’s why you need a grow-light setup. Many garden catalogs offer beautiful, multi-tiered grow-light systems that would make any room more interesting. Unfortunately, they come with a pretty hefty price tag, too.

My grow-light setup

            With seed-starting, I choose substance over style, and for an economical price, too. I repurposed a slightly worn, slightly rusty shop light fixture from the garage and moved it into the seed-starting corner of my basement. I don’t care how my seed-starting setup looks, just as long as it gets the job done, and at a reasonable cost.

           So here’s my seed-starting, grow-light system: it’s simply a 4-foot shop light suspended by chains from the ceiling, just a couple of inches above my seedlings, which are placed on a 4-foot-long table. The chain suspension allows me to raise the fixture as the seedlings grow taller.

           Specialized grow light bulbs that emit the full spectrum of light are available at most big-box hardware stores. But really, any fluorescent bulb will do the trick because it emits ultraviolet light that plants need to grow. I’ve used both kinds and saw no difference in my seedlings, which makes the regular, more-economical bulb my light of choice.

Choose your own style

            Not all seed-starting systems are the same. You may not want a 4-foot light hanging from your ceiling. I’ve also used much smaller fluorescent lights both in my house and greenhouse for smaller amounts of seeds.

           Try setting up your own economical grow-light system that works best for your own circumstances. The investment is minimal, and you’ll be rewarded with healthy, well-tended plants ready to go in the ground.


• Position the light so it’s about 2 inches above your seedlings and raise it as they grow. Positioning the light too far above the plants weakens its effectiveness, causing the seedlings to stretch toward the light and become leggy and weak-stemmed. I, unfortunately, know this first-hand. Fluorescent lights are not hot, so it won’t burn your tiny plants.

• Keep the lights on 16-18 hours per day to allow the seedlings to grow healthy roots and establish primary leaves.

• Avoid leaving the lights on 24 hours a day. A light-darkness balance each day is essential to plant health.

How large should your vegetable garden be?

It’s easy to get carried away when you’re planning a garden. Seed-packet displays filled with images of perfect vegetables and bright flowers are a definite magnet, as are colorful pages of seed catalogs. It’s easy to keep selecting more and more as you imagine creating the perfect garden. Then, when it comes time to plant all those seeds, well, you don’t. I’m embarrassed to admit to the piles of long-expired seed packets that I accumulated before I wised up and learned to buy only what I expect to plant.

Planning your first vegetable garden

If you’re just starting out, or haven’t gardened in awhile, your garden should measure about 10×18 feet with eight to 10 different vegetable varieties. This size will easily feed a family of four to six. This is simply a guideline, however. Adjust your garden spot to fit your particular situation: family size, available space, amount of time you can spend in it, and the amount of work you’re willing to do.

I always grow plenty of tomato plants.

Keep your garden manageable

Keep in mind that a too-large garden can easily overwhelm you and become a discouraging chore, and that’s when you’re more likely to give up on it. Instead, keep it manageable so you don’t have to spend too much time and effort on it. You’ll be amazed at your success — and the good food you put on your table.

Which garden vegetables should you grow?

Simply put, plant the vegetables that your family likes.

If your family eats a lot of salad, then plant lettuce, cucumbers, carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, radishes, and, of course, tomatoes.

Think about meals. Do you stir-fry? Grow bell peppers, onions, peas, and broccoli. Does your family enjoy Mexican food? Consider various hot peppers. Do you create main dishes from vegetables? Potatoes, squash, eggplant, and spinach might be options.

       In planning your garden vegetables, consider adding a variety or two that your household considers tolerable, but not great. You may find that homegrown freshness improves the taste, and that vegetable just may turn out to be a family favorite.

       Plant an unfamiliar vegetable, just for kicks. If it’s not to your taste, give the harvest to neighbors or your local food bank.